UTV Spare Tire Mounts: Hitch vs. Bed vs. Pivot Carriers (Pros & Cons)

Picture this: you’re deep in the backcountry, 40 miles from the nearest paved road. The sun is dipping below the horizon, casting long, purple shadows over the canyon. You are hammering down a wash, feeling good, when suddenly you hear that distinctive, heart-sinking sound—PSSSHHH—followed by the heavy flop-flop-flop of a dead tire.

In that moment, the difference between a minor 15-minute pit stop and a survival situation comes down to one thing: Do you have a spare tire, and can you actually get to it?

Without a properly mounted spare tire, what started as an epic adventure quickly becomes a costly tow, a dangerous night in the desert, or a long walk back to civilization. But simply throwing a loose tire in the bed isn't the answer. A loose 60-pound wheel becomes a lethal projectile in a rollover, and it eats up the space you need for coolers, tools, and camping gear.

The decision of where to mount your spare tire involves balancing accessibility, cargo space preservation, and vehicle handling. Unlike a pickup truck where you can toss a spare in the bed and forget it, UTV spare tire placement requires careful consideration of your machine’s unique constraints—center of gravity, suspension performance, and rearward visibility.

Whether you’re hauling a cooler for day trips, carrying tools for ranch work, or packing for a multi-day expedition, the wrong mounting choice can block access to essential storage or create safety hazards by shifting your center of gravity too high.

This comprehensive guide will walk you through the physics of mounting, the best locations for every riding style, the different carrier types, installation considerations, and model-specific compatibility to help you make an informed decision about your UTV spare tire setup.

Where should you mount a spare tire on a UTV?

The Short Answer: For most sport and trail riding, the best place to mount a UTV spare is low and centered in the rear bed, positioned over or slightly ahead of the rear axle. This keeps the weight off the roof (lowering center of gravity) and out of the hitch (preserving departure angle), ensuring you maintain optimal handling and rear suspension performance while keeping the tire protected.

Quick Answer: Editor’s Picks (Best Mounts by Type)

If you need a solution fast, here are the top-performing styles we recommend for 2026.

Table of Contents

1. The Physics of the Spare: Weight, Leverage, and Suspension Tuning.

2. Location Deep Dive: Bed, Hitch, Cage, Roof, and Tailgate.

3. Carrier Types: Clamp-On, Lock & Ride, Bolt-On, and Pivot.

4. DIY Fabrication Guide: Building Your Own Carrier.

5. Model-Specific Guide: Polaris, Can-Am, Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki.

6. The "Hidden" Kit: Jacks, Lug Wrenches, and Safety Gear.

7. Field Repair Protocol: How to Change a UTV Tire in the Wild.

8. Dual Spare Setups: For the Hardcore Explorer.

9. Installation: Best Practices and Torque Specs.

10. Maintenance: Preventing Rattles and Failures.

11. FAQ: Common Questions.

The Physics of the Spare (Why Placement Matters)

A mounted spare tire isn't just dead weight; it is a dynamic mass that affects how your machine handles, steers, and jumps. Before bolting on 80lbs, you need to decide if is a spare worth the weight penalty for your specific riding style.

1. Center of Gravity (CG)

Your UTV acts like a pendulum suspended from the roll cage. The lower the weight, the more stable the machine feels.

• Low Mount (Bed/Hitch): Keeps the mass near the axles. This stabilizes the chassis in corners and off-camber side hills. It helps plant the rear end for traction.

• High Mount (Roof/Upper Cage): Raises the CG. That 80lb tire acts like a lever arm 6 feet in the air. In a high-speed corner or steep off-camber trail, a roof-mounted spare creates a "tippy" sensation and significantly increases the risk of a rollover.

2. The Lever Effect (Overhang)

Weight placed behind the rear axle acts as a lever, lifting the front end of the machine.

• Hitch Mounts: Because they stick out 12-18 inches behind the rear tires, they exert huge leverage. This can make the front steering feel light and floaty on steep climbs ("wheelie effect").

• Bed Mounts: Keep the weight directly over or slightly ahead of the rear axle. This is neutral weighting, which helps forward bite without ruining steering precision.

3. Suspension Tuning

Adding 80 lbs to the very back of your UTV will sag the rear suspension.

• Preload: You will likely need to crank down the threaded collars on your rear springs (add preload) to regain your ride height.

• Damping: That extra weight carries momentum. When you hit a bump, the rear end will want to "buck" or bottom out more easily. You may need to stiffen your compression damping (clickers) to control the extra mass.

4. Departure Angle

If you ride technical rocks or steep dunes, the "departure angle" is the angle from your rear tire contact patch to the rear bumper.

• The Risk: A low-hanging hitch mount or a tire mounted low off the back bumper will drag on the ground when you transition from a steep descent to flat ground, or when starting a steep climb. This dragging can rip the carrier right off the frame or hang you up, leaving you stuck turtle-style.

Key Takeaway:

• Keep spares low and forward for performance handling.

• Hitch/roof mounts are fine for slow utility use, but hurt handling at speed.
  * Plan to adjust preload/compression after adding 60–100 lbs to the rear 12.

Location Deep Dive (Pros & Cons)

Let's break down every possible place you can bolt a tire, examining the trade-offs of space versus performance.

1. Rear Bed Mount (The Standard)

This is the most popular location for sport UTVs like the RZR XP 1000 and Maverick X3. The tire sits inside the bed box, usually angled (Baja style) or laying flat.

• Pros: Best weight distribution (low and centered). Protects the tire from sidewall damage on trails. Looks the most "race spec."

• Cons: It kills your storage. A 32-inch tire takes up nearly the entire bed of a RZR. You might fit a small soft cooler, but your days of hauling firewood or elk quarters are over.

• Best For: Day trippers, dune riders, and racers who don't carry camping gear 3.

2. Hitch-Mounted Carriers (The Space Saver)

These plug into your 2-inch receiver and hang the tire off the back, often with a swing-arm or fold-down mechanism to allow tailgate access.

• Pros: Zero loss of bed space. Easy to remove when not needed (just pull the pin). Great for utility UTVs (Ranger/Defender) where the bed is used for work or hauling dirt.

• Cons: Departure angle killer. It extends the vehicle length, making it harder to fit in a toy hauler garage. It puts significant stress on the receiver hitch during high-speed whoops.

• Best For: Hunters, farmers, and campers who need every inch of the bed 4.

3. High Roll Cage / Crossbar Mount

This mounts the tire high on the rear down-bars of the roll cage, above the bed line. The tire essentially hovers over the bed.

• Pros: Clears the bed for storage underneath (coolers/boxes fit below it). Keeps the tire out of the mud and water.

• Cons: Raises the Center of Gravity. Blocks rearward visibility (your rear-view mirror becomes useless). Lifting an 80lb muddy tire up to shoulder height to re-mount it is a back-breaker for one person.

• Best For: Mud riders (keeps tire clean) and overlanders who need to stack gear 5.

4. Roof Mount

Bolted flat on top of the roll cage or on a roof rack.

• Pros: Maximum cargo capacity inside the vehicle. Good for long-range expedition rigs carrying bulky but light camping gear inside.

• Cons: Dangerous handling. It makes the UTV top-heavy. It also increases the total height, meaning you might crash into your garage door or enclosed trailer ceiling. Wind resistance (drag) is massive, killing fuel economy.

• Best For: Slow-speed expedition rigs only. Not for dunes or high-speed trails.

Warning: When NOT to Choose Roof Racks

• Avoid roof mounts if you ride dunes, high-speed whoops, or off-camber trails. The body roll can be terrifying.

• Avoid hitch mounts if you ride steep rock ledges or climb steep hills; the overhang will drag and potentially bend your frame.

5. Side Panel Mounting

Mounted vertically on the side of the bed or roll cage (similar to a vintage Jeep).

• Pros: Looks unique. Easy access. Keeps the bed completely free.

• Cons: Makes the vehicle wider. On tight wooded trails (East Coast riding), a side-mounted spare will snag on trees and rocks, potentially ripping the mount off or damaging the frame.

• Best For: Desert utility or open-terrain work vehicles 6.

6. Tailgate Mount

The tire is bolted directly to the tailgate or a bracket that replaces the tailgate.

• Pros: Extremely convenient access. Keeps the tire out of the bed.

• Cons: Puts massive stress on the tailgate hinges and latch. Over time, the vibration causes the tailgate to rattle or fail. Adds vehicle length.

• Best For: Honda Talon owners (limited bed space) or light-duty trail riding 7.

Types of UTV Spare Tire Carriers

Understanding the hardware options ensures you buy a system that fits your machine and skills.

1. Clamp-On Carriers (Roll Cage)

These are universal-style mounts that use heavy-duty machined clamps to grab onto the 1.75" or 2" roll cage tubes.

• Best For: Custom cages or UTVs without Lock & Ride holes (like Can-Am or Yamaha).

• Feature: Versatility. You can slide them up or down the bars to adjust height.

• Look For: 6-bolt heavy-duty clamps. A heavy tire vibrating on a cheap 2-bolt clamp will rotate or slide down the tube, damaging your cage paint 8.

2. Lock & Ride / Anchor Mounts

Designed specifically for Polaris Ranger/General and Can-Am Defender beds. These use expanding rubber plungers or cam-locks to secure the mount into factory holes in the bed rail.

• Best For: Utility riders who want to remove the carrier in 10 seconds to haul dirt or hay.

• Feature: Tool-free installation and removal.

• Warning: Ensure the rubber anchors are tight. We have seen these vibrate loose on washboard roads. Buying aftermarket billet anchors is a recommended upgrade 9.

3. Pivot / Gas-Strut Mounts

The luxury option. These clamp to the C-pillars and hold the tire flat over the bed. When you need to get into your cooler, you pull a latch, and gas struts lift the tire up out of the way.

• Best For: The "have it all" rider who wants bed storage and a secure tire mount.

• Feature: Effortless access.

• Cons: Expensive ($400-$600). Gas struts eventually wear out and need replacement.

4. Combo Kits (Carrier + Jack)

Brands like Tusk and Rocky Mountain ATV/MC offer carriers with integrated mounting points for a scissor jack and lug wrench.

• Why buy this: A spare tire is useless if you have no way of lifting the car to swap the spare on a soft trail. These kits solve the storage problem for the jack, which is awkward to pack otherwise.

DIY vs. Buy: Building Your Own Carrier

For the fabricators and welders, a spare tire carrier is a great Saturday project. Why spend $300 when you have a welder and scrap metal?

Safety Disclaimer: If you weld your own carrier, you are fully responsible for ensuring it is structurally sound. A weld failure at 60 MPH can launch a 60lb tire into following traffic or your own passenger compartment. Inspect your welds thoroughly.

The DIY Build Checklist

1. Tube Clamps: Don't weld directly to your roll cage (it weakens the cage and ruins resale value). Buy 1.75" tube clamps from a fabrication supplier (like RuffStuff or Ballistic Fabrication).

2. The Plate: You need a steel plate with wheel studs pressed in. You can buy "spare tire mounting plates" pre-cut with your bolt pattern (4x156 or 4x137) for ~$30 online. This is safer than trying to weld bolts yourself.

3. The Geometry: Ideally, build a "Y" strap design.

• Use 1.5" DOM tubing (.095 or .120 wall).

• Triangulate the structure so it doesn't wobble. A single bar will vibrate and fatigue.

4. The Latch: If building a swing-out carrier, use a heavy-duty destaco latch and a urethane bump stop to prevent rattling. Metal-on-metal latches will drive you insane on the trail.

Cost vs. Effort Analysis:

• Buying: $150 - $400. Ready to bolt on in 20 minutes. Engineered and tested.

• DIY: $60 materials + $40 clamps + 4 hours labor + painting/powder coating.

• When DIY makes sense: If you already have a welder, clamps, and want a custom location or integrated storage; otherwise, a $150–$300 bolt-on carrier is the better trade of time vs money.

UTV Model Compatibility Guide

Not all mounts fit all machines. Here is the breakdown for the major platforms.

Polaris Ranger (XP 1000 / 900)

• The Challenge: It's a dump bed. If you mount the tire to the roll cage (which doesn't move), and the bed dumps (which does move), you have interference.

• The Fix: Bed-rail mounts (using Lock & Ride) are best. They move with the bed when you dump it. Hitch mounts also work well here since the Ranger is high enough that departure angle isn't usually an issue for utility work 12.

Polaris RZR (XP 1000 / Turbo / Pro R)

• The Challenge: Aggressive riding and massive suspension travel. A hitch mount will drag in the dunes or whoops.

• The Fix: Rear Bed Mounts (angled) or Pivot Mounts. Pivot mounts (like those from Assault Industries or SuperATV) clamp to the C-pillars and lift up on gas struts, allowing you to access the bed storage underneath the tire. This is the "Goldilocks" solution for RZRs.

Can-Am Maverick X3

• The Challenge: The bed is essentially a flat deck with no sides (on some models) and the rear cage slopes radically. The radiator usually pulls air from this area.

• The Fix: Low-Profile Deck Mounts. These bolt the tire flat against the rear deck. It keeps the CG ultra-low. For maximum storage, use a "Adventure Rack" that puts the tire up high (roof line) to clear space for the LinQ cooler box below 13.

Honda Talon / Pioneer

• The Challenge: The Talon has a very small cargo area.

• The Fix: Tailgate Mounts. Several companies make mounts that replace the tailgate or bolt to it, hanging the tire off the back to preserve the tiny bed for a cooler. For the Pioneer (dump bed), stick to bed-rail clamps or under-bed mounts (if tire size allows) 14.

Yamaha YXZ 1000R / Wolverine RMAX

• The Challenge: The massive rear radiator on the YXZ requires massive airflow.

• The Fix: Do not block the view! You must use a mount designed specifically for the YXZ that keeps the tire angled or high enough to allow airflow to the rear-mounted radiator fans. Blocking this with a solid tire will overheat the engine in minutes. For the RMAX, the dump bed necessitates a hitch mount or bed-rail mount similar to the Ranger 15.

Kawasaki Teryx KRX 1000

• The Challenge: A deep, spacious bed but a very tall cage profile.

• The Fix: Cross-Bar Mounts. The KRX cage has excellent cross-bracing that makes clamping a tire carrier very secure. Because the bed is deep, a vertical mount leaves plenty of room for a 30-can cooler next to it.

The "Hidden" Kit: Jacks, Tools, and Safety

You mounted the spare. Great. Now, you have a flat on the trail. Do you have the tools to change it?

Most UTVs do not come with a jack or lug wrench. Having a spare mounted to your cage is useless if you can't get the old tire off. Check our full guide on Best UTV Tire Repair Kits for the complete list, but here are the essentials:

The Essential Tire Change Kit

1. The Jack:

• Scissor Jack: Cheap, light, fits under a suspension arm. Good for hardpack. Included in many Tusk kits.

• Hydraulic Bottle Jack: Faster, but tall. Hard to fit under a UTV with a flat tire unless you have high clearance.

• Exhaust Jack (Air Bag): Great for sand/snow where a metal jack would sink.

• Race Jack: Heavy and expensive, but lifts the car instantly. Overkill for trail riders.

• See our guide on Best UTV Jacks for specific product recommendations.

2. The Wrench:

• Do not rely on a cheap "L" wrench. The lug nuts are often recessed deep in aftermarket wheels.

• Carry a breaker bar with the correct socket size (usually 17mm or 19mm) and a thin-wall extension.

• Electric Impact: If you have room, a Milwaukee M12 stubby impact makes tire changes a 2-minute job.

3. The Chocks:

• UTV parking brakes (Park gear) only lock the rear wheels. If you jack up the rear, the front wheels can roll. Carry compact wheel chocks or be ready to find big rocks.

Field Repair Protocol: How to Change a UTV Tire in the Wild

Mounting the spare is one thing; using it is another. Here is the safest way to do it on a trail.

1. Stabilize: Park on the flattest ground possible. If you are on a hill, use your winch to anchor the machine to a tree so it can't roll off the jack.

2. Break Loose: Break the lug nuts loose before you jack up the car. If you lift it first, the wheel will just spin when you try to turn the wrench (unless you are in 4WD and Park).

3. Lift Point: Place the jack under a solid frame rail or the trailing arm pivot. Do not jack under the plastic skid plate (it will crack) or the A-arm (it might slip).

4. The Safety Slide: As soon as the flat tire is off, slide it under the frame rail. If the jack slips, the UTV falls on the tire, not on your brake rotor (or your leg).

5. Swap & Torque: Mount the spare. Hand-tighten lugs. Lower the jack. Torque the lugs in a star pattern.

6. Secure the Flat: Don't forget—you now have a flat tire to carry. A blown-out tire might be wider or misshapen than a good one. Ensure your carrier can accept a shredded carcass, or carry a heavy-duty ratchet strap to tie it down in the bed.

Dual Spare Setups: For the Hardcore Explorer

If one spare is good, are two better? You are adding 120-160 lbs to the rear axle. Before adding the tires, you need to make sure you have the payload capacity for the carrier and the suspension valving to handle that dynamic mass. You must re-spring and re-valve your rear shocks for this weight, or the car will handle terribly.

For extended expeditions (Baja, cross-country) or racing, carrying two spares is common.

• The Setup: Usually a vertical bed rack that holds two tires side-by-side.

• The Weight: You are adding 120-160 lbs to the rear axle. You must re-spring and re-valve your rear shocks for this weight, or the car will handle terribly.

• The Strategy: Carry one front tire and one rear tire (if you run staggered sizes). If you run a square setup, carry two identical tires.

• Alternative: Instead of two full spares, carry one mounted spare and one unmounted carcass (just the rubber) strapped to the roof or floor. It weighs less, and in a pinch, you can cut the bad tire off the rim and mount the new rubber in the field (if you have starting fluid and tire irons).

Installation Considerations and Setup

How to install it so it doesn't fly off or rattle you to death.

1. Anchor Points

For Lock & Ride systems, tighten the expansion plugs until they feel firm, then give them another full turn. They loosen with vibration.

• Pro Tip: Replace the stock rubber expansion plugs with aftermarket billet anchors. They grip tighter and don't dry-rot 16.

2. Thread Locker (Loctite)

Every bolt on a tire carrier needs Blue Loctite (242). UTVs vibrate at a high frequency that loosens bolts rapidly. Apply it to the clamps, the pivot bolts, and the hardware holding the carrier to the frame.

3. Lug Nut Torque

Torque the spare tire to the carrier just like you would a wheel on the hub (usually 80-100 ft-lbs). A loose spare will "wallow" out the mounting holes on the carrier plate, destroying the carrier and potentially launching the tire.

4. Check Cargo Clearance

Before tightening everything down, load your cooler and tool box. Make sure the carrier doesn't prevent the lid from opening. It sounds obvious, but it is the #1 complaint after installation. Ensure the tire doesn't hit the rear window or exhaust heat shield 17.

Maintenance (Preventing Rattles and Ejections)

A silent tire carrier is a safe tire carrier. If it rattles, something is loose or wearing out.

The "Shake Test":

Before every ride, grab the spare tire and shake it violently.

• Movement at the Tire: The lug nuts are loose. Tighten them.

• Movement at the Hinge/Pivot: The bushings are worn or the pivot bolt is loose.

• Movement at the Cage Clamps: The clamps have shifted. Retorque them. If they keep slipping, wrap a layer of friction tape or thin rubber around the roll bar under the clamp.

Lubrication:

If you have a swing-out or pivot carrier, grease the hinge pin every 3-4 rides. Dust mixed with dry metal wears out hinges fast, leading to sagging.

Strap Check:

If you use a "Y-strap" (Baja style) tie-down instead of a bolt-on carrier, check the webbing for UV damage and fraying. Sunlight destroys ratchet straps in about 1-2 years. Replace them before they snap.

FAQ: Common Questions

Q: Does adding a spare tire affect my suspension?

A: Yes. 60-80 lbs hanging off the very back of the machine increases leverage on the rear shocks. You may need to add preload to your rear springs (crank them down) or adjust your compression damping (stiffer) to prevent the rear from squatting or bottoming out over bumps.

Q: Can I mount a front tire as a spare and use it on the rear?

A: Yes. This is the standard practice. A front tire (narrower) will fit on the rear hub to get you home. A rear tire (wider) often will not fit on the front hub because it will rub the tie rods or shocks when turning. Always carry a front-size spare.

Q: Is a roof-mounted tire safe?

A: It is safe if the mount is secure, but it is not recommended for aggressive driving. The change in center of gravity is noticeable. If you ride dunes or high-speed trails, keep the weight low.

Q: Can I just throw the spare loose in the bed?

A: No. In a rollover, a loose 60lb wheel becomes a cannonball. It can crush the occupants or fly out and hit someone else. At minimum, it must be strapped down securely with heavy-duty ratchet straps rated for the weight.

Q: Do I need a wheel spacer for the spare?

A: Sometimes. If you have aftermarket wheels with a different offset than stock, or if you run a "front" spare on the rear, check the clearance against the brake caliper and trailing arm. A small spacer might be needed to clear suspension parts in a pinch.

Still Not Sure Where to Put Your Spare?

• If you ride dunes or fast desert → Get a bed mount (angled) or pivot/lift carrier. Stability is key.

• If you hunt / ranch and haul stuff daily → Get a hitch or bed-rail mount (vertical). Access is key.

• If you go on multi-day trips → Get a pivot/lift mount over the bed with a jack + tool kit bolted to it. Storage is key.

Conclusion: The Final Verdict

Selecting the right spare tire mount for your UTV requires careful consideration of mounting location, carrier type, and model compatibility to ensure optimal function and safety. The investment in proper spare tire mounting pays dividends in emergency preparedness, trail confidence, and overall riding enjoyment.

• For the Trail Cruiser: Get a Hitch Mount or Tailgate Mount. It's cheap, easy, and keeps your bed empty for coolers.

• For the Sport Rider: Get a Rear Bed Mount (Angle). It keeps the weight centered for handling and looks great.

• For the Overlander: Get a Pivot/Lift Mount. It maximizes storage by stacking the tire above your gear.

Don’t let a preventable tire emergency cut short your off-road adventures. Research your options, confirm compatibility with your UTV model, and install a quality spare tire carrier before your next trail ride. Your future self will thank you when that inevitable flat tire occurs miles from the nearest road.