Winter is coming. The days are getting shorter, the mud is freezing into something resembling concrete, and UTV owners everywhere are facing the annual existential crisis.
No, not "Why did I spend this much money on a side-by-side?"—that’s a question for your therapist. We are talking about the other big one: What do I do with my summer rubber?
When the snow starts to fall, and you are swapping over to your aggressive snow treads (or tracks, if you’re fancy), you have a decision to make that affects your wallet, your storage space, and your sanity. Do you strip the tires off the wheels to save space, or do you leave them mounted?
There is a massive debate among off-road enthusiasts about this. Some say stripping them saves the rubber; others say it ruins the bead. After decades of dealing with winter storage, wrenching on rigs, and ruining a few expensive sets of tires myself, I’m here to settle it.
This is the ultimate, comprehensive, no-nonsense guide to long-term storage for your UTV tires. We are going to cover the science of rubber, the economics of rims, and exactly how to keep your traction investment from turning into hockey pucks.
The Short Answer (TL;DR)
If you don't have time for the science lesson and just want the answer:
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The Verdict: Store them mounted ON the rims.
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Why: It protects the bead seal, prevents the carcass from deforming, and makes your spring changeover a 30-minute job instead of a half-day ordeal.
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The Only Exception: If you literally live in a shoebox and cannot spare the extra 40% volume, dismounting them is the only way to save space.
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The Golden Rule: Keep them clean, cool, dark, and away from electric motors (ozone is the tire killer).
The Great Debate: On Rims vs. Off Rims
Let’s get into the meat of it. Why is there even a debate? Well, because UTV tires are massive, and garage space is finite. But when we look at the evidence, the scale tips heavily in one direction.
The Case for Storing ON Rims (The Winner)
Industry experts and manufacturers agree: having a dedicated second set of wheels for your tires is the way to go.
1. You Save the Bead (and the Seal)
The tire bead—that stiff ring of steel and rubber that creates the airtight seal against the wheel—is the most critical part of the tire's anatomy. Every time you mount or dismount a tire, you are stretching that bead over the rim lip. Doing this once is fine. Doing it twice a year (winter on, summer off; summer on, winter off) is mechanical cruelty.
Over time, this tears up the rubber sealing surface, leading to those annoying slow leaks that leave you stranded three miles up a trail. By keeping them mounted, you lock that seal in place and leave it alone.
2. The "Spring You" Will Thank You
Imagine it is the first beautiful weekend of spring. The birds are singing, the trails are drying out, and you are ready to rip.
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Scenario A (Mounted): You roll your summer wheels out of the corner, check the pressure, zip them on with an impact gun, and you are riding in 45 minutes.
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Scenario B (Unmounted): You drag four loose tires and four loose rims to your truck. You drive to the tire shop. You wait three hours (or three days) because everyone else is doing the same thing. You pay $100+ for mounting and balancing. You drive home. You install them. You’ve lost a whole day of riding.
3. Preventing "Flat Spots"
Rubber has memory. If you leave a heavy UTV sitting on tires in one spot for months, the tire carcass will "remember" that flat shape. When a tire is mounted and inflated, the air pressure acts as an internal skeleton, pushing out against the rubber and helping it hold its round shape. An unmounted tire at the bottom of a stack has no internal support and is much more likely to warp.
The Case for Storing OFF Rims (The Loser)
To be fair, there are two reasons you might choose this route:
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Space Efficiency: Generally, removing tires from rims can reduce your storage footprint by about 40% because you aren't storing the bulky wheel center. If you live in an apartment with a closet for a garage, this might be your only choice.
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Rim Preservation (Edge Case): If you are running cheap steel wheels in a very humid environment, storing them separately allows you to coat the wheels in oil or protectant to prevent rust. However, you can usually do this while they are mounted anyway.
The Economics of a Second Set of Wheels
"But Top Gear," I hear you ask, "Rims are expensive! I don't want to buy a second set!"
Let’s do some "back of the napkin" math. A typical tire shop charges between $15 and $25 per tire for mounting and balancing.
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Mounting Winter Tires: $20 x 4 = $80
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Mounting Summer Tires: $20 x 4 = $80
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Total Annual Waste: $160 per year.
A decent set of basic steel rims or entry-level alloys for a UTV can often be found for $300–$500 if you shop the sales. That means in just 2-3 years, the second set of wheels pays for itself. Plus, you can sell those wheels separately if you ever sell the UTV. It’s a better investment than throwing money at a tire machine twice a year.
The Science of Tire Aging: Why Rubber Dies
To understand how to store your tires, you need to understand what kills them. Your tires aren't just dead chunks of plastic; they are complex chemical chains.
1. Oxidation (The Slow Killer)
Oxygen is great for breathing, bad for tires. Over time, oxygen penetrates the rubber and reacts with the chemical bonds that keep the tire flexible. This is called oxidation. It makes the rubber hard, brittle, and prone to chipping. Heat accelerates this process.
2. Ozone (The Fast Killer)
This is the big one people forget. Ozone ($O_3$) is a highly reactive gas that attacks the polymer chains in rubber, breaking them down rapidly. This leads to "dry rot" or sidewall cracking.
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Where does Ozone come from? Electric sparks. If you store your tires next to your central heating furnace, your sump pump, your air compressor, or your welder, you are blasting them with ozone. Tire makers specifically warn to keep stored tires away from ozone sources like motors, chargers, generators, and welders1.
3. UV Radiation (The Sun)
Ultraviolet light acts like a laser beam on rubber bonds. It breaks them apart, causing the surface to turn gray and crack. If you leave your tires outside in the sun, you might as well bake them in an oven. Major brands like Continental and Michelin recommend storing tires out of direct sunlight in a cool, dry place.
The Ultimate Storage Checklist: Step-by-Step
Okay, you’ve got your extra set of tires. You are ready to put them away for the season. Don't just toss them in the corner. Follow this protocol to ensure they survive the long term storage.
Phase 1: The Deep Clean
You need to clean your tires before storage. This isn't about vanity; it's about chemistry. Mud, road salts, and brake dust are not neutral. They are often acidic or hold moisture against the rubber.
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The Wash: Use mild soap, water, and a stiff brush. Avoid harsh petroleum-based solvents (like gasoline or heavy degreasers) as they can strip the oils out of the rubber.
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The Detail: Get a screwdriver or a pick. Look closely at the tread blocks. See those little stones jammed in there? Pry them out. If you leave sharp rocks embedded in the tread during storage, they can work their way deeper into the carcass as the temperature fluctuates.
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The Dry: This is crucial. Let them air dry completely. If you stack wet tires, you are creating a mold factory.
Phase 2: Inspection Time
While you are down there cleaning, look at the condition of the rubber. This is the perfect time to decide if they are even worth keeping.
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Check the Sidewalls: Look for cuts, bulges, or existing cracks.
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Check the Tread: Is it worn down to the wear bars?
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Check for Repairs: Did you plug a tire on the trail last July? Now is the time to fix it properly with a patch.
Phase 3: Pressure Management
This is where many people get it wrong. The ideal psi changes depending on how you store them.
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If Storing ON Rims: Inflate them to 12–15 PSI.
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Why? You want enough pressure to maintain the shape of the tire so it doesn't deform, but you don't need full operating pressure. 12-15 PSI is the "Goldilocks" zone—firm enough to stand, soft enough to rest.
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If Storing OFF Rims: Inflate lightly to 2–3 PSI (if you can even keep air in them).
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Why? Actually, unmounted tires don't hold air pressure (obviously), but you want to ensure they aren't crushed. If you are stacking unmounted tires, ensure they aren't being squashed into an oval.
The Nitrogen Question: Should you fill them with nitrogen? If you have access to it, yes. It prevents internal rim corrosion because it is "dry." But don't pay $50 for it just for storage. Good old atmospheric air is fine if it’s relatively dry.
Phase 4: Location, Location, Location
You want a dungeon. Seriously. The perfect storage room is cool, dark, and dry.
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Temperature: The ideal range is 32°F to 70°F. Avoid freezing temps if possible, as they make rubber rigid. Avoid heat at all costs. Storing tires next to a radiator or in a hot boiler room will cook the essential oils out of the rubber.
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Light: Pitch black is best. If your storage area has windows, cover the tires. Sunlight is the enemy.
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Humidity: You want a dry place. Damp basements are bad for steel rims.
Warning: Concrete is Lava
Never, ever store tires directly on a concrete floor. Concrete is porous. It wicks moisture from the ground up, and it can also pull oils out of your tire. It acts like a slow-motion sponge.
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The Fix: Put a barrier down. A wooden pallet, a piece of plywood, a thick rubber mat, or even a sheet of heavy cardboard. Just get them off the earth.
Positioning: The Art of the Stack
How you physically arrange the tires matters to prevent deformation.
Method 1: Upright (The Best Way)
The absolute best way to store mounted UTV tires is standing upright on a tire rack.
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Why: It puts the least amount of stress on the sidewalls.
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The Trick: If they are standing on the ground, rotate them about 90 degrees once a month. This ensures gravity doesn't flat-spot the bottom.
Method 2: Stacking (The Space Saver)
If you don't have a rack, you can stack them on their sides (flanks).
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For Mounted Tires: This is perfectly fine.
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The Limit: Don't stack more than 4 tires high. If you stack 8 tires, the one on the bottom is being crushed by the weight of 7 wheels. It will deform.
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Rotation: Midway through winter, take the top tire and move it to the bottom. It’s like a card deck shuffle, but heavier.
Method 3: Hanging (Proceed with Caution)
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Mounted Tires: You can hang them from hooks through the rim center. This is a great space saver.
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Unmounted Tires: NEVER hang an unmounted tire by a hook. The hook will deform the bead, and you will never get it to seal again.
The Cost of Laziness
Let’s be real. It’s easy to just park the UTV in the backyard and throw a tarp over it. Why shouldn't you do that?
The Cost Analysis:
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Proper Storage: $0 (if you have space) to $100 (tire rack/covers).
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Improper Storage: Failing to prevent premature aging and dry rot reduces tire life by 50%. You are also looking at potential bead leaks ($30 repair per tire) and vibration from flat spots that can ruin your wheel bearings over time.
Your tires represent a massive investment. A set of high-end 32-inch UTV tires can cost $1,200 or more. If you treat them right, they can last for many seasons. If you treat them wrong, you’ll be buying a new set in two years because the sidewalls are cracking.
Summary Checklist
Here is your mission for this weekend:
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Buy a second set of cheap rims. (If you haven't already).
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Clean your off-season tires with soap and water. No chemicals.
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Dry them completely.
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Inspect for trail damage.
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Inflate to 12-15 PSI.
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Find a cool, dark corner in the garage (away from the furnace).
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Place a barrier (wood/cardboard) on the floor.
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Stack them max 4 high, or stand them up on a rack.
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Cover them with an opaque bag to block light.
Do this, and when the seasons change, you won't be wrestling with tire irons or fighting with a bead that won't seal. You’ll be on the trail while your buddies are still in the garage. And really, isn't that the whole point?